INTERMEDIATE STEPS – DRESSMAKING TECHNIQUES FOR THE PROFICIENT SEAMSTRESS 1/5
Having already attended the Make do and mend workshop at Walthamstow’s Cheekyhandmades and wanting to do more selfish sewing (hate that term) I signed up for Ray-Stitch’s bit-of-a-mouth-full titled ‘Intermediate Steps – Dressmaking Techniques for the Proficient Seamstress’.
Here we learned techniques that would turn your hand made garments into professional looking clothes with a number of finishes that can help beginner sewists gain confidence in zips, hems and stitch styles. The class covered invisible zips, lapped zips, french seams, flat felled seam, blind hem, pin hem and button holes.
My personal fear is zips and have avoided any patterns so far with zips so today I faced my fear and in this blog post I walk you through what we learned for a great invisible zip finish.
Sewing an invisible zip
One thing to note about invisible zips is that the process is back-to-front (if you’re already familiar with ordinary zips – which I’m not!) You’ll need a regular zipper foot and an invisible zip foot. Check that they fit your sewing machine brand.
Lay your zip on top of your fabric (reverse) with the top part of the zip at the top part of your fabric or garment and mark with chalk or washable pen just above where the teeth of the zip joins at the base (on invisible zips the teeth are merged together, on a regular zip this is the metal square tab at the bottom).
Press your fabric however your seam allowance specifies (here we were using 1.5cm).
Turning the iron down for nylons, not to melt the zip carefully iron the front facing of the zip teasing out the teeth. This helps get a closer finish when sewing the zip into the fabric. Repeat on the other facing side.
With your fabric facing right side up, open the zip fully and place on top of your fabric with the teeth lining up with where you’ve pressed, pin this vertically like so:
Fabric right side facing up, invisible zip facing down. Pin close to the pressed seam.
The invisible zip foot has two settings (left and right) to ensure you have the zip ‘channel’ set to the right side. In this case the majority of the zip foot should sit on the right of the zip, this image below from website Husqvarna shows this in better detail:
Image credit: Husqvarna.com
Stitch all the way to the bottom of the zip and as close to the base and backstitch.
Turning the fabric and zip right side facing up, twist the second side of the zip forwards on to the right side of the other half of your fabric, so the second part of the zip sits reverse side down on your pressed seam like so (excuse the finger!):
Right side facing up, twist over and pin zip to pressed seam.
Pin in place.
Swapping sides of your zipper foot making sure the opposite channel now can ‘accept’ the zipper teeth, sew all the way down to the base (where you previously marked where the zip ends) backstitch.
To finish off, swap to the regular zipper foot and start stitching from your chalk line past the base of the zip and continue until the end of your garment/project requires keeping an eye on your seam allowance (our was 1.5cm throughout).
Sew as close as you can to the zipper.
Here are the results of the finished zip!
Invisible zip closed. Nearly perfect!
Invisible zip closed. Reverse facing. You can’t see the stitches but they’re there!
Ironing the zip first helps you get close to the teeth and a neat finish.
I hope this helped you, I’m certainly going to try an invisible zip on my next project! More blogs to come from this workshop.